Today, the Setúbal Peninsula is recognised as one of Portugal’s most distinctive wine regions, celebrated for its diverse terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and centuries-old winemaking heritage. Yet the wines we enjoy today are the result of generations of growers and winemakers whose work, knowledge, and resilience shaped the region long before modern technology entered the vineyard or cellar.
A century ago, winemaking in the Setúbal Peninsula was a very different endeavour—one deeply connected to the rhythms of nature, manual labour, and local traditions passed down from one generation to the next.
A Landscape of Vineyards
In the early decades of the 20th century, viticulture was already a central part of life across the Setúbal Peninsula. From the sandy soils of Palmela to the limestone and clay-rich areas surrounding Azeitão and the coastal zones influenced by the Atlantic, vineyards formed an important element of both the landscape and the local economy.
Most vineyards were small family holdings. Wine was not merely a commercial product; it was part of daily life. Families cultivated vines alongside olive trees, fruit orchards, cereals, and livestock, creating diversified agricultural systems that provided both food and income.
The vineyard was often worked entirely by hand, requiring significant effort throughout the year. Pruning, soil management, harvesting, and grape selection relied on human skill and experience rather than machinery.
Indigenous Varieties and Local Identity
Long before global grape varieties became fashionable, the region’s vineyards were dominated by local Portuguese varieties adapted to the climate and soils of the peninsula.
Among red grapes, Castelão—known locally for generations—was already one of the region’s defining varieties. Its ability to thrive in sandy soils and withstand dry conditions made it particularly valuable to growers.
White varieties such as Fernão Pires, Arinto, and Moscatel also played important roles, contributing to both everyday wines and the fortified wines that would eventually bring international recognition to the region.
Unlike today, vineyard selection was often based on practical knowledge accumulated over decades rather than scientific studies. Growers planted the varieties that had proven themselves through experience and observation.
Harvest: A Community Effort
The grape harvest was one of the most important moments of the agricultural year.
Taking place at the end of summer and beginning of autumn, the vindima brought together entire families and, frequently, neighbouring communities. Men, women, and children all participated in gathering the grapes, often starting before sunrise to avoid the hottest hours of the day.
The harvest was hard work, but it was also a social occasion. Meals were shared in the vineyard, songs accompanied the work, and the completion of the harvest was often marked by local celebrations.
The spirit of cooperation that characterised these harvests became an enduring part of the region’s wine culture.
Traditional Winemaking Methods
Once harvested, grapes were transported to wineries by carts pulled by animals or carried in baskets and wooden containers.
Winemaking techniques were simple by modern standards but effective. Grapes were often crushed in traditional stone lagares, sometimes by foot treading, a method that allowed gentle extraction while preserving fruit quality.
Fermentation occurred in large wooden vats, stone tanks, or clay vessels, depending on local traditions and available resources.
Temperature control technologies did not exist. Winemakers relied on experience, observation, and the natural conditions of the cellar to guide the fermentation process.
The resulting wines were often less uniform than today’s wines, with each vintage reflecting the particular weather conditions and challenges of the year.
The Rise of Cooperative Winemaking
The early twentieth century was also a period of change.
Economic challenges, market fluctuations, and the need for greater stability encouraged growers to collaborate. Over the following decades, cooperative wineries would become increasingly important throughout the Setúbal Peninsula, allowing small producers to pool resources, improve production standards, and access larger markets.
These cooperatives played a significant role in preserving local grape varieties and maintaining viticulture as a cornerstone of the region’s economy.
The Influence of Moscatel de Setúbal
Even 100 years ago, the region was already closely associated with Moscatel.
Produced from the Moscatel de Alexandria grape, these fortified wines had gained a reputation far beyond Portugal’s borders. Their aromatic intensity, richness, and ageing potential made them highly sought after in international markets.
Many of the traditional production techniques developed during this period continue to influence Moscatel production today, connecting modern bottles to a long and distinguished history.
A Century of Evolution
Much has changed over the last hundred years.
Modern viticulture benefits from scientific research, advanced vineyard management, precision winemaking, and a deeper understanding of terroir. Quality standards have improved dramatically, and the region’s wines now reach consumers around the world.
Yet despite these advances, many of the values that defined winemaking in the Setúbal Peninsula a century ago remain unchanged.
Respect for the land. Commitment to quality. Pride in local grape varieties. A deep connection between people and place.
These principles continue to guide the region’s producers and help preserve the identity that makes Setúbal’s wines unique.
Honouring the Past, Looking to the Future
At Pêgo da Moura, we recognise that every bottle of wine is part of a story that began long before us.
The vineyards of the Setúbal Peninsula have been cultivated for generations by people who understood the value of patience, hard work, and respect for nature. Their knowledge laid the foundations upon which today’s wines are built.
By embracing both tradition and innovation, we seek to honour that legacy while contributing to the future of one of Portugal’s most remarkable wine regions.
The wines may have evolved, but the spirit of the Setúbal Peninsula remains the same—a spirit rooted in the land, shaped by history, and carried forward with every harvest.